7nt Benson RETURN via Windsor
A cruise from Benson is the best choice for those who want to immerse themselves in the lush British countryside with its tranquil stretches of waterway and acres of open pastures, hills and farmland. On this 7 night itinerary you’ll travel as far as royal Windsor, with the opportunity to explore several iconic English villages and sights along the way, including Henley-on-Thames, Marlow and Cliveden House.
Suggested Itinerary
Arrive at base
2pm – 5pm
After you have arrived and checked-in, we’ll show you to your boat as quickly as possible. Spend time settling in, freshen up and await your pre-departure briefing which will be given by one of our base technicians. They will familiarise you with the boat’s domestic systems and give you a hands-on demonstration of the boat controls and how to operate it. They will make sure you are comfortable and confident controlling the boat, as well as navigating the waterway, before you set off.
Explore Benson
5pm – 7pm
Before dinner, enjoy a walk into Benson village, which is very pretty. There’s a small Co-op store just a 10 minute walk from the base, so you can also take the opportunity to stock up on provisions for the week. There are bigger supermarkets (Waitrose and Lidl) in nearby Wallingford if you prefer – it’s a 7 minute drive if you have a car.
Dinner at Three Horseshoes, Benson
7:30pm – 9:30pm
After a complete refurbishment in 2022, the Three Horseshoes is a smart and welcoming village pub with a lovely garden and excellent food. Kick your holiday off with a delicious meal and a celebratory drink – the first of many! +44 (01491 838242 | threehorseshoesbenson.co.uk
Overnight in Benson
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Benson > Reading
9am – 1pm
Approx. 4hrs | 5 locks
Lunch on Whittingtons Tea Barge, Reading
1pm – 2pm
Whittington’s is a modern, light and airy wide beam canal barge, built in 2012 and moored in central Reading, just alongside Christchurch Meadows where you can also moor. It recreates the traditional feel and values of an English tea room, serving sandwiches, toasties and cream teas in relaxed surroundings on the water. Its only open on Saturdays and Sundays, and bookings are recommended. +44 (0)7778 787 308 | whittingtons-teabarge.co.uk
If Whittington’s isn’t open then we’d recommend Valpy Street Bar and Bistro, which is a 10 minute walk into Reading.
Explore Reading
2pm – 3pm
You might have time after lunch to hop into Reading for a bit of shopping. Or you may wish to visit Reading Museum to view the British replica of the world-famous Bayeaux Tapestry which chronicles the Norman conquest of England. It is 70 metres long and was painstakingly recreated by a group of Victorian embroiderers in 1885. Entry is free. readingmuseum.org.uk
Reading > Henley-on-Thames
3:30pm – 6pm
Approx. 2hrs 30mins | 4 locks
Dinner at The Three Tuns, Henley-on-Thames
7:30pm – 9:30pm
Housed in a 14th century building bursting with character and history, this charming, cosy, old pub has classic wood décor, exposed beams and open fires. Its food is highly-rated and made with locally-sourced, seasonal produce alongside a selection of real ales. Take a pleasant stroll into the heart of Henley and you’ll find the Three Tuns on Market Place.
Overnight in Henley-on-Thames
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Henley-on-Thames > Cliveden House
9am – 12:30pm
Approx. 3hrs 30mins | 5 locks
As you exit Cookham Locks, the Cliveden Estate is ahead of you… but it’s obscured by trees so you won’t see it. About 1km after the lock – you’ll see Spring Cottage on the left-hand side – its an unassuming building with magnificant stones steps leading to the water’s edge. You can moor just after the cottage on the towpath. Then follow the towpath in an upstream direction – all paths eventually lead to the house and gardens where you should proceed to the information centre to pay your entry fee.
Lunch in the Cliveden Estate
1pm – 2pm
Either pack a picnic to enjoy in one of Cliveden’s many gardens or visit the Orangrey Cafe which serves a range of light bites and lunches. Or maybe a slice of cake in the Dovecote Coffee Shop?
Explore the Cliveden Estate
2pm – 5pm
Cliveden House and its surrounding estate have been home to earls, countesses, dukes, a prince of Wales and Viscounts. The house is now owned by the National Trust, and its gardens and grounds are open to the public to be enjoyed by all. The grade I listed gardens include the Rose Garden, the fantastical topiary in the Long Garden and the tranquil escape of the water gardens. And not forgetting the impressive 6 acre Parterre, with colourful displays of flowers in symmetrical designs. You might also have time to find your way to the middle of Cliveden’s deceptively difficult yew-tree maze.
Cliveden House > Maidenhead
5:15pm – 6pm
Approx. 45mins | 1 lock
Dinner at The Boathouse at Boulter’s Lock
7:30pm – 9:30pm
Nestled on an island right next door to Boulter’s Lock, with their own private moorings, this beautiful venue offers superb, elevated river views and top-notch grub. Enjoy fresh, seasonal and ethically-sourced food on their al-fresco terrace, accompanied by a drink from their extensive wine list and cocktail menu. 01628 621291 | boathouseboulterslock.co.uk
Overnight in Maidenhead
For families with younger children
Cliveden: As well as the maze at Cliveden, children can enjoy haring around the acres of woodland that neighbour the gardens. There’s also an information trail and an activity play trail where children can test their climbing, balancing and den building skills. And don’t forget to visit the Storybook Play Den.
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Maidenhead > Windsor
9am – 10:45am
Approx. 1hr 45mins | 3 locks
Explore Windsor
10:40am – 1pm
This morning we suggest building up an appetite for lunch by taking a walk along the very aptly-named Long Walk. It stretches 4km (one way) and starts at the rear entrance of Windsor Castle by the golden George VI gates and takes you on a dead-straight line through scenic parkland, all the way to the copper statue of King George III and his horse, which sits at the top of a hill. You might spot deer along the way and the views from the hill by the statue are really stunning – back towards the castle and the London skyline to the east. You might even see the Shard, the UK’s tallest building, on a clear day. It will take a couple of hours to walk to the statue and back, so reward yourself with a drink at the Two Brewers Pub on your return.
Lunch at The Two Brewers, Windsor
1pm – 2:30pm
Conveniently located at the entrance/exit to the Long Walk, this cosy little pub has been trading since 1792. It is full of atmosphere and serves excellent pub food – perfect for a lunch time pit-stop. There is outside seating, and only 9 tables inside, so we recommend booking ahead. As they advise – the best table is a booked table. 01753 855 426 | twobrewerswindsor.co.uk
Unfortunately, children are not allowed inside so, if you can’t get a table outside, we’d recommend the Long Walk Grill. It’s just a 3 minute walk, back towards the castle.
Explore Windsor
2:30pm – 6pm
If it’s open, then a visit to Windsor Castle, the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world, is an absolute must. Afternoons are generally a quieter time of day to visit. Allow 2 hours and we recommend you book your tickets online in advance. rct.uk/visit/windsor-castle
If today is a Tuesday or Wednesday, then unfortunately Windsor Castle is closed to visitors. Windsor is your turnaround point, so it is difficult to plan a return itinerary from Benson any other way. But there is plenty more to see here. Wander around the Church Lane/Market Street area with its cobbled streets and quirky gift shops or go shopping in the undercover Windsor Royal Station Shopping Centre. You could also explore neighbouring Eton on the other side of the Thames. Eton High Street is a charming and quintessentially English, lined with antique stores, artisan shops and independent boutiques. It takes about 15 minutes each way from the Thames to Eton College. Although the college isn’t open to the public, its impressive buildings are worth a photograph or two.
Dinner at Brasserie at Sir Christopher Wren, Windsor
7:30pm – 9:30pm
The Brasserie at the Sir Christopher Wren Hotel offers a weekly menu that includes British classics such as steak & ale pie and traditional desserts like homemade fruit crumble and Eton mess. Booking recommended. +44 (0)1753 442400 | sirchristopherwren.co.uk/food-drink/the-brasserie
Overnight in Windsor
For families with younger children
Just outside of Windsor, LEGOLAND® Windsor Resort is a theme park specially designed for children aged 2-12 years old. Shuttle buses depart every 30 minutes from outside the Theatre Royal. Book tickets online: legoland.co.uk
Or at treasuretrails.co.uk you can pay for a downloadable treasure hunt trail that will take you on a 90 minute walk around Eton or a 2 hour walk around Windsor while looking for answers to a series of clues. You get to see the sights while the kids stay entertained.
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Windsor > Cookham
9am – 12noon
Approx. 3hrs | 4 locks
Lunch at The Ferry, Cookham
12noon – 1:30pm
This characterful pub is filled with cosy corners and comfy armchairs – plus there’s loads of outdoor seating. Owned by Mitchells & Butlers and serving a fabulous menu. +44 (0)1628 525123 | theferry.co.uk
Explore Cookham
1:30pm – 4pm
There are some particularly lovely walks in and around Cookham – some of the prettiest in the whole of the Thames Valley region in fact. There’s a short 2.5km walk around the village – or a longer 7.5km walk that joins up with the Thames Path National Trail. You can download details from visitthames.co.uk. Afterwards, rehydrate at the Bel and The Dragon which was built in 1417 and claims to be one of the oldest pubs in England.
Cookham is also the former home to both Kenneth Grahame, author of ‘The Wind in the Willows’ and Sir Stanley Spencer, an artist who depicted biblical scenes as if they were occurring in Cookham. The Stanley Spencer Gallery on the High Street houses more than 120 of his artworks.
Cookham > Marlow
4pm – 5pm
Approx. 1hr | 1 lock
Explore Marlow
7pm – 7:30pm
Marlow is a very pretty Georgian town that has produced many British Olympic rowers. On the way to dinner, walk through Higginson Park to see Sir Steve Redgrave’s statue and find the gold post box in the High Street, which marks Naomi Riches’ 2012 Paralympic gold in the mixed rowing.
Dinner at The Coach, Marlow
7:30pm – 9:30pm
This Michelin-starred pub is brought to you by chef Tom Kerridge. It has a relaxed and informal setting, set in the heart of Marlow and offering simple, classic and inventive food. Several bar stools face directly into the open kitchen giving front row seats to all the ‘culinary theater’. You can make same day reservations only – from 9am. 01628 401538 | thecoachmarlow.co.uk
Overnight Marlow
For families with younger children
Marlow: At www.treasuretrails.co.uk you can pay for a downloadable treasure hunt trail that will take you on a 90-minute walk around Cookham looking for answers to a series of clues. You get to see the pretty village while the kids stay entertained.
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Marlow > Henley-on-Thames
9am – 11:30am
Approx. 2hrs 30mins | 3 locks
Lunch at The Chocolate Café at River & Rowing Museum, Henley-on-Thames
11:30am – 12:30pm
Enjoy a selection of rolls, salads, paninis and other light bites in the café terrace of this superb museum. And don’t forget to sample the scrummy hot chocolate. The museum has its own jetty and moorings.
Explore Henley-on-Thames
12:30pm – 2:30pm
After lunch, you should stay and visit the River & Rowing Museum’s excellent exhibits. The Rowing Gallery covers the history of rowing, from its roots in ancient warfare to its current recreational use, including exhibits from recent Olympic events. The River Gallery gives a fascinating insight into many aspects of the river including environmental issues, natural history, river & water management and even swan upping! A third gallery delves into the history of Henley, while the Wind in the Willows exhibition is a delight for the little ones. rrm.co.uk
Henley-on-Thames > Pangbourne
2:30pm – 6pm
Approx. 3hrs 30mins | 6 locks
Dinner at The Swan, Pangbourne
8pm – 10pm
This beautiful 17th century listed building has been lovingly decorated with a contemporary feel. It is right by the river so you can moor right outside and dine al-fresco if the weather suits. Choose from superb seasonal dishes from pubs classics, excellent fish and enticing sharing platters. swanpangbourne.co.uk
Overnight in Pangbourne
For families with younger children
Henely-on-Thames: If you have little ones, it’s still worth visiting the River and Rowing Musuem in Henley to visit the Wind in the Willows exhibit. The museum is adjacent to Mill Meadows (upstream of the Museum) which include a couple of really good palygrounds for younger and older children, as well as acres of open space and a wildlife walk.
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Pangbourne > Basildon Park
9am – 9:30am
Approx. 30mins | 0 locks
Moor along the tow path adjacent to Beale Park
Walk or cycle to Basildon Park
9:30am – 10am
It’s a 25 minute walk or a 10 minute bike ride to Basildon Park, which takes you through the car park of Beale Park and then along a busy road. After you exit Beale Park, there is no pavement for first 200m, so take extra care.
Explore Basildon Park
10am – 1pm
This Georgian mansion was lovingly rescued by Lord and Lady Iliffe in the mid-1950s and is now a re-creation and restoration of the 18th century building. Treat yourself to a cream tea, experience the nostalgia of the 1950s kitchen or stretch your legs among the 400 acres of historic parkland. The house features in the popular period TV drama, Downton Abbey – the interiors are use as the Crawley family’s London residence, Grantham House. nationaltrust.org.uk/basildon-park
Lunch in the Tea Room, Basildon Park
1pm – 2pm
The Team Room is on the ground floor of the mansion and serves hot and cold snacks, sandwiches, cakes and drinks – or try a traditional cream tea.
Walk or cycle back to Beale Park Moorings
2pm – 2:30pm
Basildon Park > Benson
3pm – 6pm
Approx. 3hrs | 3 locks
Dinner at Waterfront Café, Benson
7:30pm – 9:30pm
Serving gourmet burgers and British classics, the Waterfront Café is right next door to our base in Benson and is the perfect way to finish your boating holiday. They’re also renowned for an impressive selection of cakes and desserts and there’s plenty of outdoor seating overlooking the river… and lots of ducks!
Overnight in Benson
For families with younger children
Baslidon Park: Rather than exploring Basildon Park, head to Beale Park instead. There’s an indoor and outdoor play village, narrow gauge railway, model boats and the animal athletics challenge where your wits can be pitted against members of the animal kingdom in a series of ten challenges dotted around the park.
Breakfast on board
7:30am – 8:30am
Enjoy your final breakfast on board before tidying and vacating your boat by 9am (unless you have booked and paid for a late-checkout)
Depart Benson
10 night alternative
With an additional 3 nights to play with, instead of turning around at Windsor, you can continue your journey east as far as Kingston-upon-Thames. On the way, you could stop at our base in Chertsey and spend a day in Thorpe Park for some white-knuckle thrill rides. We’d definitely recommend a day in Hampton Court Palace, touring the impressive state rooms and extensive gardens. Or you could visit London – you can’t take your boat into central London, but it’s easily accessible by train. You can buy a day ticket from Windsor, Oxford, Reading or Kingston-upon-Thames and travel via the underground all over the city. London is brimming with heritage, culture, iconic sights and attractions and most of the museums and galleries are free to enter!
This itinerary is a suggestion only
This suggested itinerary is an indication of what could be accomplished, and your ability to accomplish it, is not a contractual obligation of Le Boat. Le Boat is unable to guarantee when your pre-departure briefing will take place and in some cases it will not be given until the morning after your arrival. In these instances, you will need to adapt the itinerary outlined to accommodate a later departure. All cruising distances and times are approximations and are subject to local navigation restrictions at the time you cruise, planned or otherwise, which may also require you to deviate from the itinerary shown. Please check advertised opening times of sights, attractions and restaurants to avoid disappointment – some may need to be booked in advance. All meals, entry fees and tour tariffs are payable at your own expense. Attractions, restaurant and even locks and/or stretches of the waterway may be closed or can close without notice.
We’d love to hear from you
We’ve tried our very best to ensure the accuracy of the information we’ve provided. If you have followed all or some of this itinerary and have found something isn’t quite right, or perhaps you have some helpful tips and pointers that we could add which might be useful to your fellow boaters, we’d love to hear from you. Please email us at: itineraries@leboat.com
Image credits
Benson Lock: Benson Lock by Steve Daniels, CC BY-SA 2.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0>, via Wikimedia Commons | Exterior of Basildon House: David Battle | Octagon Room: National Trust Images / Andreas Von Einsiedel | Basildon Park: National Trust Imagaes / Rupert Truman.