7nt Port Cassafières to Homps ONEWAY
Towards the western end of the Canal du Midi, the Embranchment de la Nouvelle branches off and leads you south to the attractive city of Narbonne with its wonderful Spanish influences. On this itinerary, you’ll also visit the working L’Oulibo olive grove, dine at a fancy chateau in Capestang, visit the very pretty village of Le Somail and taste the exquisite wines of the Paraza estate. The flight of locks at Fonseranes will start your boating adventure on day 1 – you’ll be ‘lock perfect’ in no time.
Suggested Itinerary
Arrive at base
2pm – 5pm
After you have arrived and checked-in, we’ll show you to your boat as quickly as possible. Spend time settling in, freshen up and await your pre-departure briefing which will be given by one of our base technicians. They will familiarise you with the boat’s domestic systems and give you a hands-on demonstration of the boat controls and how to operate it. They will make sure you are comfortable and confident controlling the boat, as well as navigating the waterway, before you set off.
Explore Portiragnes Plages
6:30pm – 7:30pm
Walk down to east end of Plage de la Redoute (20 minutes) and then enjoy a pre-dinner stroll along the sand. You can’t see any buildings from the beach so it feels wonderfully remote and wild. When you reach the Maui Plage Snack bar – exit the beach to find a cluster of restaurants to enjoy dinner at. (Note: If you need some provisions for breakfast, after dinner we suggest you walk back to your boat via the coastal road and then head inland along Av. des Mûriers (D37) where you find a Spar mini-market. However, you can leave your ‘big shop’ for tomorrow morning, because you’ll pass a huge supermarket in Cers, just a little further along the canal.)
Dinner at La Côterie, Portiragnes Plages
7:30pm – 9:30pm
Enjoy dinner near the coast in this laidback local pizzeria. For bookings: +33 449066002 | la-coterie.negocio.site
Overnight in Port Cassafières
For families with younger children
Instead of Portiragnes Plages: Just a 10 minute cycle (or 30 minute walk) from our base, to the north of the canal, Eurl Azimut adventures operates a series of high rope course through the trees, and a climbing tower. They open until 2pm – 6pm (9am – 7pm in July and August). Book in advance at azimut-aventures.fr and note they shut down for the winter in early September.
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Port Cassafières > Cers
9:30am – 10:30am
Approx. 1hr | 1 lock
Stock up on provisions at the supermarket, Cers
10:30am – 11:30am
The supermarkets is just 200m from the canal, but you’ll need to cross a busy main road at a bridged intersection to get there – so please take care. Moor as close as you can to the concrete bridge. We suggest dinner on board your boat this evening, so make sure you get provisions in for this – the convenience store in Colombiers is quite small.
Cers > Villeneuve-les-Béziers
11:30am – 12:15pm
Approx. 0hrs 45mins | 2 locks
Moor immediately after passing through Arièges Lock
Lunch at L’Ecluse, Villeneuve-les-Béziers
12:30pm – 2pm
The chef here cooks traditional French cuisine, made with fresh and local produce, including oysters from nearby Bouzigues. The 7hr slow-cooked lamb is the speciality and the dessert platters are worth saving room for. For bookings: +33 4 67 62 11 02 | restaurant-ecluse-beziers.fr
Cers > Fonseranes Locks
2pm – 3:15pm
Approx. 1hr 15mins | 2 locks
Keep on cruising past Béziers and as you exit Orb Lock, you will cross over the River Orb on the Orb Aqueduct – the largest aqueduct on the Canal du Midi with seven main arches measuring a total of 240m long, 28m wide and 12m high.
Ascend the Fonseranes Locks
4pm – 5:30pm
Approx. 1hr 30mins | 6 locks
One of Riquet’s most ingenious engineering solutions, the Fonseranes Locks. It’s a staircase of locks, originally composed of eight chambers in a row, which allowed boats to be raised a height of 21.5m across a distance of 300m. Today, only six chambers are still in service (the seventh gives access to the flight and remains permanently at the lower canal level while the eighth chamber is not used.
There are strict times to pass through the flight. If you miss the allocated time, you may have to wait for most of the day, or overnight for the next timeslot. It will take about 1hr to travel through the staircase. Boat can ascend the locks between 10am – 11:45am (12:15 in peak season) and 4pm – 5:15pm (6:45pm in peak). This itinerary gets you here nice and early so you can get an early place in the queue. The locks are manned by lock keepers, who will squeeze as many boats into each lock as they can. They will operate the gates, so all you need to do is steer your boat into each chamber and keep your boat still using the lines. After you’re in the first lock, it is easier to send one or two crew members lock-side with the lines (when it is safe to do so) and keep them there for the duration. If you allow plenty of time and don’t allow yourself to be panicked or rushed, you will enjoy the experience. Just accept that progress will be slow.
Fonseranes Locks > Colombiers
5:30pm – 6:15pm
Approx. 0hrs 45mins | 0 locks
After the Fonseranes Locks, there are no more locks on the Canal du Midi for 54km until just before Argens-Minervois – this stretch of the canal called the ‘big pound’. So, no more locks for the next two days on this itinerary, until you turn off down L’Embranchement de La Nouvelle on ‘day 5’.
Dinner on board, Colombiers
6:30pm – 9:30pm
After a busy day of boating and navigating the Fonseranes Locks, we’d suggest chilling on board your boat this evening. Preparing your own meal and maybe fire up the barbecue if your boat has one (or if you’ve added one to your booking)?
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Colombiers > Malpas Tunnel
9am – 9:15am
Approx. 15mins | 0 locks
Just outside Colombiers, moor on the left just before the entrance to the Malpas tunnel.
Explore the Oppidum of Ensérune
9:15am – 11:30am
Follow the path uphill, towards the The Oppidum of Ensérune, an archaeological site that offers a remarkable glimpse into the past, from the Bronze Age to the Roman conquest (6th century BC to 1st century AD). Follow the trail to discover the well preserved remains of the ancient village and 300 silos dug into the rock to store grain. The museum houses a fine collection of pottery and ceramics from excavations on this site.
This is also the best viewpoint to see the dry Montady Lake, which was once a marsh of stagnant water which once caused many epidemics. In the 13th century, the lake was dried out using 60 drainage ditches, which split this vast expanse of 430 hectares into the shape of a large shining sun. From the center, an underground culvert, 1.3km in length, evacuates water through the hill of Ensérune, under the Malpas Tunnel, and away to the south.
Malpas Tunnel > Poilhes
11:30am – 12:15pm
Approx. 45mins | 0 locks
Begin by cruising through the Malpas tunnel, which passes under the hill of Ensérune and was dug, in secret, by Riquet. A few meters of digging in hard rock revealed very brittle sandstone, subject to slippage. So, work was stopped by the prime minister while he sent a royal commission to decide the canal’s future. Undeterred, Riquet began digging anyway and completed the tunnel in eight days. The tunnel is 173m long, 6m wide and 8.5m high – the first navigable canal tunnel in Europe. Note: There’s no room for passing other boats, so check that passage is clear first, and sound your horn before entering.
Lunch at Les Platanes, Poilhes
12:30pm – 2pm
This highly-rated little restaurant is situated in at a leafy crossroads just a stone’s throw from the canal. Sit on their cute kerb-side terrace, enjoy delicious French and Mediterranean cuisine and a receive a warm welcome from its New Zealand owners. +33 4 67 93 38 41
Poilhes > Capestang
2pm – 2:45pm
Approx. 45mins | 0 locks
Explore Capestang
3pm – 5:30pm
Capestang is a small market town. The Gothic St. Étienne Collegiate church was built in the 13th century by the same team who built the cathedral in Narbonne. It was meant to be a lot bigger and grander, but it was never finished, hence the rather ‘out-of-place’ grandeur of the stained-glass windows and other features. It is worth paying for a tour, which grants you access to the bell tower, from which magnificent views over the Cevennes foothills, the Pyrenees and the Oppidum of Ensérune can be enjoyed. This ancient Archbishop’s Castle was the Archbishop of Narbonne’s summer residence and, while it’s not much to look at from the outside, it’s worth a visit to see the palace staterooms and a ceiling adorned with 15th century paintings.
Dinner at Château Les Carrasses, Capestang
7:30pm – 9:30pm
This old wine château from the 19th century welcomes you to its brasserie or terrace overlooking the garden and the surrounding vineyards. It is most definitely worth taking the time to get here if you want somewhere extra special to dine. The food is, without question, sublime. In the Château’s shop, you will find regional wines and homemade jams, tapenade, olives and crafts. Located 2.6km from the canal in Route de Capestang, the most convenient way to reach the restaurant is by taking a quick taxi ride. (CAPES’TAXI: + 33 (0)4 67 11 00 83).
Booking recommended. +33 4 67 00 00 67 | lescarrasses.com
Château Les Carrasses offers a free glass of the estate’s wine to Le Boat customers when you dine in their restaurant.
If you can’t get a table at the Château, or would like to eat somewhere a little less fancy and closer to your moorings, we’d recommend Le Provence, a restaurant and pizzeria serving simple but delicious fair and scrumptious ice cream for dessert. Especially recommended for families with younger children. +33 4 67 93 36 54 | leprovence.restaurant
Overnight in Capestang
For families with younger children
Vélorail du Midi: Make a stop during your cruise between Poilhes and Capestang after Les domaines Marins and before the road bridge and walk 10 min towards Lieu dit, Le Bosc in Montardy. Vélorail is a family fun activity where you drive a cart on rails which has 2 driving positions, each equipped with a brake. The cart can fits a total of 2 adults and 3 children. The 7 km (1h15) return route in the heart of nature is largely shaded, crossing the undergrowth and landscapes of the region. The Vélorail is like a journey through time. In the distance, the cathedral of St Nazaire in Béziers dominates the skyline and the medieval tower of Montady is watching you. You will pass at the foot of the oppidum of Enserune and cross Montady and its many aqueducts designed in the Middle Ages.
For booking and departure times: velorailducanaldumidi.fr/en/the-course |+ 33 (0) 6 17 05 69 58
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Capestang > Le Somail
9am – 12noon
Approx. 3hrs | 0 locks
As you leave Capestang, the stone bridge you pass under has the reputation of being the lowest on the canal (the lowest is actually in Carcassonne). Its curved shape makes it quite tricky to pass under – so take it slow and steady.
In Le Somail, there may be room to moor at the Nicols moorings – €20 including electric hook-up and water. When you arrive, we recommend ordering bread and pastries for your morning breakfast from the grocery barge: +33 6 69 53 6718
Lunch on board, Le Somail
12noon – 2:30pm
After your morning cruising, enjoy a leisurely lunch on board and then stroll to Le Glacier du Somail for a scrummy frozen dessert. They open at 2pm.
Cycle to L’Oulibo
2:30pm – 2:50pm
If you added bike rental to your vacation booking, we suggest cycling 20 minutes to the north of Somail to visit the The Olive Oil Cooperative Oulibo. Or, the tourist information office (next to Nicols) may arrange a taxi for you.
Besuchen Sie die Olivenmühle Cooperative Oulibo
3pm – 5pm
Enjoy a 1.5hr guided tour (afternoon tours start at 3pm) through the olive groves to learn about farming olives and the production of olive oil, including a sound and light show and tasting. Book a tour in advance: 04 68 41 88 84 or loulibo.com/guided-visit
L’Oulibo offers a free guided tour (per family) and 5% discount in their shop, to Le Boat customers.
Cycle back to your boat in Le Somail
5pm – 5:30pm
Explore Le Somail
5:30pm – 6:30pm
Take some time before dinner to wander around this pretty little Languedoc town that is home to quality restaurants and a couple of art galleries. The antiquarian bookstore (“Le Trouve Tout du Livre”, which literally translates as “The place to find all the books”) is popular and opens between 2:30 – 6:30pm.
Dinner at L’Ô à la Bouche, Le Somail
7:30pm – 9:30pm
L’Ô à la Bouche is a beautifully converted wine cellar is the ideal setting for this restaurant that serves elegant and tasty French food and exquisite desserts – all home-made. They have been awarded the title of Maître Restaurateur which recognizes excellence and their commitment to quality. There outdoor seating is right next to the canal. For bookings: +44 4 68 46 00 09 | loalabouche-somail.com
L’Ô à la Bouche offers a complimentary aperitif for Le Boat customers
Overnight in Le Somail
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Visit Le Somail’s famous Grocery Barge, moored close to the bridge, for your bread and breakfast pastries. It also offers basic groceries, drinks, wines and also a selection of regional products. They open at 7am.
Le Somail > Sallèles d’Aude
9am – 10:45am
Approx. 1hr 45mins | 5 locks
Set off east, back the way you came last night, but turn off the Canal du Midi down the Embranchment de la Nouvelle. The first section is the very straight Canal de Jonction which has 7 locks in total, although you won’t make it through them all before the locks keepers go to lunch at 12noon, so you should stop for lunch after lock no:5
Explore Sallèles d’Aude
11am – 12noon
This is a charming little village and worth a quick stroll around to find the quirky Chapel of St. Roch and Le Calvaire, a pretty, roofed structure of stone walls and arches which is now a park for the people of the village to share.
Lunch on board, Sallèles d’Aude
12noon – 1:30pm
There’s a good bakery on Gr Grand Rue called Boulangerie Solé if you need bread and for lunch (and some sweet treats for dessert of course!) It’s open until 1:15pm.
Sallèles d’Aude > Narbonne
1:30pm – 4pm
Approx. 2hrs 30mins | 5 locks
Carry on to the end of the Canal de Jonction, where you will turn right and very briefly navigate along the River Aude, before passing through another lock and on to the Canal de la Robine.
Explore Narbonne
5:30pm – 6:30pm
Enjoy and early evening stroll before getting ready for dinner. Narbonne has a rich heritage where grand and ancient buildings sit majestically among a network of clean, modern and lively streets and boulevards. It has a wonderful southern French atmosphere with a Spanish twist.
Dinner at Chez Lulu, Narbonne
7:30pm – 9:30pm
Make sure you book in advance as this place gets busy. The warm welcome, chic setting, attentive staff and excellent food all give this restaurant a highly-acclaimed reputation. Lulu himself will often come and explain his menu to you. To book: +33 4 68 32 24 87
Overnight in Narbonne
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Explore more of Narbonne
9am – 12noon
The Archbishop’s Palace is an impressive-looking, albeit unusual, building. It has housed, since the 19th century, the City Hall and is now also home to the Museum of Art and the Archaeological Museum. You can walk up the steep steps inside the 42m tower and get a great view over to the Mediterranean and the cathedral – the third highest cathedral in France The immense interior is equally as impressive as its Gothic exterior. Be sure to visit the wonderful “Les Halles de Narbonne” which is famous across the south of France. This covered food market hosts more than 70 stalls: bakers, confectioners, butchers, delicatessens, fishmongers, greengrocers and wine merchants. Be sure to stock up for on board barbecues and picnics.
Lunch at Chez Bebelle, Narbonne
12noon – 1pm
Located in Les Halles de Narbonne, your order is announced by staff using a megaphone and then the fresh meat will be tossed to the kitchen staff from neighboring stalls. Quite a show! Open 8am – 2pm. +33 6 85 40 09 01 | chez-bebelle.fr
If you’d prefer less ‘hectic’ surroundings or aren’t big on meat, then try Chez Marius, not far from Les Halles. This wine bar serves delicious tapas style food, a great selection of wine and has a great covered outdoor space on which to enjoy it. +33 4 30 16 12 82 | chezmarius-narbonne.fr
Narbonne > Le Somail
1:30pm – 5:50pm
Approx. 4hrs 20mins | 10 locks
Back the way you came yesterday. Make sure you leave no later than 1:30pm – to ensure you get back to Le Somail before the locks close and to get a mooring space before it gets too full. Remember, when you pass through the lock and onto the River Aude, look out for the right-turn shortly after, which takes you through the lock that is the start of the Canal de Jonction. And don’t forget to order more bread and pastries for your morning breakfast from the grocery barge: +33 6 69 53 6718
Dinner at l’Escale du Somail, Le Somail
7:30pm – 9pm
This perfectly-situated restaurant has a pleasant shaded terrace and offers delicious dishes full of flavors in generous portions. +44 (0)4 68 42 22 61 | https://www.lescaledusomail.fr/
Overnight in Le Somail
For families with younger children
Narbonne: If you like cycling and have added bikes to your vacation booking, you could spend the morning riding along the Canal de la Robine. The towpath is sealed and runs from Narbonne all the way to Port-la-Nouvelle, passing two vast lakes. Although there is little shade and can be quite windy, it is really beautiful. Its about a 70 minute cycle in each direction to reach Port-la-Nouvelle – or you could take a slightly short ride to Gruissan (45 mins each way).
Breakfast on board
7:30am – 8:30am
Le Somail > Paraza
8:30am – 9:30am
Approx. 1hr | 0 locks
On this stretch of the canal, you’ll pass over the Répudre Canal Bridge, one of the only canal bridges built by the canal’s famous designer, Pierre-Paul Riquet. By passing over the waters of the Répudre, it avoided the damage that its waters caused to the canal during floods. Completed in 1676, it was the first canal bridge built in France and is reputed to be the second in the world.
Explore Paraza
9:45am – 11:45am
Near the center of the village and dominating the brow of the hill is Château de Paraza, which is where Pierre-Paul Riquet was housed while he oversaw the building of the canal. Today, wine is produced at the château and its owners offer guided tours and wine tasting. You can just turn up, but we’d recommend booking in advance. Contact: Lucile Danglas on 09 64 33 37 43 or 07 78 19 16 41 or email: chateaudeparaza@gmail.com | €45 per person. The Château opens at 10am and its a 10 minute amble, uphill, to get there.
Château de Paraza offers 10% off boxed wine, to Le Boat customers.
Paraza > Argens-Minervois
12noon – 1pm
Approx. 1hr | 1 lock
Lunch at La Guinguette, Argens-Minervois
1pm – 2:30pm
You’ll love this ‘finger-lickingly’ good barbecue restaurant – we regularly hear from our customers who rave about it. It’s al fresco dining only and strung with bunting and fairy lights at night. The food here is rustic, tasty and freshly prepared… oh, and the portions are generous too. The ice cream is served in vase-sized glasses. Booking recommended: +33468415196 | laguinguette-restaurant.com
La Guinguette offers a complimentary Cartagena (a local wine) to Le Boat customers
Argens-Minervois > Homps
2:30pm – 5pm
Approx. 1hr 45mins (+45 minutes for a walk and time to enjoy the view) | 5 locks
Moor just after Pechlaurier Locks and scale the short but steep path that lead to a look-out for some great view over the canal and surrounding countryside. Then continue your journey on to Homps
Explore Homps
5pm – 7pm
If the Parazan wines weren’t to your liking, there’s a great wine merchant, La Maison des Vins du Minervois, just across the footbridge from our base. They offer a vast selection of wines from over 100 wineries and vineyards of the region and they will gladly allow you to try before you by. They are open until 6pm, Mon – Fri. maisondesvinsduminervois.com
Alternatively, 15 minutes from Homps, by foot, you’ll find Lake Jouarres. It’s a large swimming lake with a walking path around the southern half and perfect for a pre-dinner stroll.
Dinner at Les Tonneliers, Homps
7:30pm – 9:30pm
Cross the footbridge by the base and in a couple of minutes you’ll be there. Dine in a beautiful and elegant garden setting serving fresh French and Mediterranean cuisine. Booking recommended: +33(0)4 34 44 20 19 | lestonneliers.fr
Overnight in Homps
For families with younger children
At Lake Jouarres there’s a beach where you can enjoy a late afternoon swim. Plus, in July and August, Domerc Fun Jouarres operate an inflatable waterpark, canoe and kayak rental and other watergames. Bookings in advance are advised at: +33 9 74 56 75 67 | jeux-lacdejouarres.fr
Breakfast on board
7:30am – 8:30am
Enjoy your final breakfast on board before tidying and vacating your boat by 9am (unless you have booked and paid for a late-checkout)
Depart Homps
9am
10 night alternative
If you have 10nts booked, we’d suggest adapting the start of this itinerary by initially heading west on your first day, stopping in Agde for lunch and then onwards to overnight in the water side town of Marseillan. This takes you beyond the western end of the Canal du Midi and a short way across the open waters of the Etang de Thau, a vast saltwater lagoon famed for its oyster farms. Needless to say, the fresh seafood is amazing and Marseillan is also home of the Noilly-Prat where this famous vermouth is made – a tour and tasting is in order perhaps? The following day, you should then head back east and rejoin the itinerary as outlined above.
There may also be time to spend a day in the UNESCO-listed fortified citadel at Carcassonne. It is a further 6 hours of cruising east of our base at Homps – so probably a bit far to make it there and back again, but you could catch a taxi from Homps – its only 30 minutes by car and well worth a day trip.
This itinerary is a suggestion only
This suggested itinerary is an indication of what could be accomplished, and your ability to accomplish it, is not a contractual obligation of Le Boat. Le Boat is unable to guarantee when your pre-departure briefing will take place and in some cases it will not be given until the morning after your arrival. In these instances, you will need to adapt the itinerary outlined to accommodate a later departure. All cruising distances and times are approximations and are subject to local navigation restrictions at the time you cruise, planned or otherwise, which may also require you to deviate from the itinerary shown. Please check advertised opening times of sights, attractions and restaurants to avoid disappointment – some may need to be booked in advance. All meals, entry fees and tour tariffs are payable at your own expense. Attractions, restaurants and even locks and/or stretches of the waterway may be closed or can close without notice.
We’d love to hear from you
We’ve tried our very best to ensure the accuracy of the information we’ve provided. If you have followed all or some of this itinerary and have found something isn’t quite right, or perhaps you have some helpful tips and pointers that we could add which might be useful to your fellow boaters, we’d love to hear from you. Please email us at: itineraries@leboat.com
Image Credits
Portiragnes: capdagde.com | Fonseranes Locks aerial: Shutterstock | Fonseranes Locks, Boats in the lcoks: Wikipedia